The Gourmet Weekend

Les Halles de Tours Market

Begin your gourmet weekend at Les Halles de Tours, the historic covered market that's been the heart of the city's food culture since 1886. Arrive early (the market opens at 7 AM on Saturdays, but 9 AM gives you the perfect balance of energy and availability) to experience the market at its liveliest.

What to look for:

• Rillettes de Tours — the city's famous pork spread, at one of the dedicated charcuterie stalls
• Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine goat cheese — look for the log shape with the straw running through the center
• Seasonal produce — asparagus in spring, tomatoes in summer, mushrooms in autumn
• Tarte Tatin — pick one up from a bakery stall for later

Drive to Vouvray

After the market, drive 15 minutes northeast to Vouvray, the Loire Valley's most celebrated Chenin Blanc appellation. The D952 follows the Loire's north bank through gentle vineyards and limestone cliffs honeycombed with tufa cellars.

First stop: Domaine Huet (advance booking required) — This biodynamic estate is Vouvray royalty, producing some of the world's finest Chenin Blanc across the full spectrum from bone-dry to lusciously sweet. Their cellars, carved into the hillside, maintain perfect natural conditions for aging. The 90-minute tour and tasting covers the estate's terroirs, biodynamic practices, and a vertical tasting of their sec, demi-sec, and moelleux styles.

Lunch in Vouvray Village

The village of Vouvray has several excellent lunch options that pair local cuisine with the region's wines:

La Cave Martin (recommended) — A wine bar and bistro in a 15th-century tufa cave. The menu focuses on charcuterie boards, terrines, and seasonal vegetables, all designed to complement Vouvray's diverse wine styles. Expect to pay €18–€28 per person for lunch with a glass of wine.

Alternative: L'Aubinière, a more formal restaurant in a historic manor with garden seating (€35–€50 for a full meal). Book ahead on weekends.

Montlouis-sur-Loire Tasting

Cross the Loire to Montlouis-sur-Loire (10-minute drive via D751), Vouvray's lesser-known but equally compelling neighbor. The appellation sits on the river's south bank, producing Chenin Blanc that tends toward more minerality and freshness compared to Vouvray's richer textures.

Domaine de la Taille aux Loups — Jacky Blot's estate is the reference point for modern Montlouis. The cellar visit reveals the differences in terroir across their multiple vineyard parcels, and the tasting allows you to compare Montlouis directly with the morning's Vouvray. No booking required for tastings (though tours require advance notice).

Guinguette Dinner on the Cher

End the day at a traditional guinguette — casual riverside restaurants that epitomize French summer dining culture. These open-air spots serve simple, seasonal food with an emphasis on conviviality and long, leisurely meals.

La Guinguette de la Plage in Saint-Avertin (15 minutes from Montlouis) sits directly on the Cher River with a large terrace, live music on weekends, and a menu of grilled meats, river fish, and salads. The wine list emphasizes local producers. Reservations recommended on summer weekends.

Return to your Tours accommodation by 10 PM (most guinguettes wind down by 9:30–10 PM).

Goat Cheese Farm Visit

Drive 45 minutes south from Tours to visit a working goat cheese farm in the Sainte-Maure-de-Touraine AOC zone. This is one of France's most distinctive cheeses — the ash-coated log with a rye straw running through its center.

La Ferme de la Roche (booking essential) offers Sunday morning farm visits where you'll meet the goats, tour the aging rooms, and taste the cheeses at various stages of maturity. The visit lasts about 90 minutes and provides real insight into artisanal cheese production. Kids are welcome, and the farm setting is genuinely charming.

Villandry Gardens (Optional)

On the return route to Tours, consider a stop at Château de Villandry (25 minutes from Sainte-Maure). While this itinerary is food-focused, Villandry's Renaissance gardens include spectacular ornamental vegetable gardens (potagers) that connect directly to the Loire's culinary heritage. The garden visit takes 60–90 minutes.

Alternative: Skip Villandry and head directly to Chinon for more wine exploration (see afternoon section).

Lunch & Chinon Red Wines

The afternoon shifts focus from whites to reds. Drive to Chinon (45 minutes from Villandry, 1 hour from Tours), the heart of Loire Valley Cabernet Franc production. The medieval town, dominated by its hilltop fortress, sits along the Vienne River.

Lunch at Les Années 30 — This bistro on Chinon's main square serves regional classics like andouillette (if you're adventurous), magret de canard, and pike-perch from the Loire. The wine list is exclusively local, featuring Chinon estates across all price points. Expect €30–€45 per person.

After lunch, visit Domaine Bernard Baudry (3 km outside Chinon center, taxi or drive recommended). Matthieu Baudry produces benchmark Chinon reds that showcase Cabernet Franc's ability to range from light and peppery to structured and age-worthy. The estate offers walk-in tastings and tours by appointment.

Return to Tours via Loire Scenic Route

The drive back to Tours takes 50 minutes via the D751, which follows the Loire's south bank. This is one of the valley's most beautiful stretches, passing through riverside villages and offering frequent views of the river.

Optional stop: If you have energy for one more tasting, Château d'Azay-le-Rideau (30 minutes from Chinon) is one of the Loire's most photogenic châteaux, sitting on an island in the Indre River. The visit takes 45–60 minutes, and the surrounding village has cafés for a late-afternoon refreshment.

Final Dinner in Tours

Conclude your gourmet weekend with a celebratory dinner in Tours. If you're ready for a splurge, book La Deuvalière (1 Michelin star, €70–€95 tasting menu) or L'Evidence (refined bistronomy, €45–€65). For something more casual after two days of indulgence, try Comme à la Maison, a neighborhood bistro near the cathedral with excellent wine-by-the-glass options and honest cooking (€25–€35).

Conclude with a digestive stroll through Tours' Place Plumereau, the city's half-timbered medieval heart, before retiring.

Transportation

Car essential: While Tours is accessible by train, a rental car is necessary for this itinerary. Most wine estates are outside town centers. Rent from Tours train station or airport.

Designated driver: French drunk-driving laws are strict (0.05% BAC limit). Plan for one person to taste lightly, alternate days, or hire a private driver (€200–€350/day).

Wine shipping: Most estates ship internationally. Factor this into your purchasing decisions rather than trying to pack bottles.

Booking Strategy

Reserve 2–3 weeks ahead: Domaine Huet, farm visits, and weekend restaurants fill up, especially May–September.

Flexible backup: Have alternative estates in mind. Vouvray and Montlouis have dozens of excellent producers beyond those listed here.

Sunday timing: Many wine estates close Sundays. The Chinon leg works May–September when tourism estates stay open; otherwise, move it to Saturday afternoon and rearrange Day 1.

Seasonal Considerations

Best months: May–June (spring produce, asparagus season) and September–October (harvest, mushrooms, less crowded)

Summer (July–August): Guinguettes are at their best, but book everything well in advance. Expect heat — tastings in cool caves are a relief.

Winter (Nov–March): Markets and restaurants continue; wine estates have more time for visits. Swap guinguettes for indoor dining.

Dietary Notes

Vegetarians: France's culinary culture is meat-centric, but Tours has improving vegetarian options. Communicate dietary needs when booking upscale restaurants.

Allergies: Always inform restaurants and tasting rooms of allergies. French service is generally accommodating once aware.